Perfumer, Geza Schoen launched Escentric Molecules in 2006 with a pair of fragrances that focus on an enigmatic aroma-molecule, Iso E Super.
Escentric 01 contains 65% of this one molecule, an unprecedented amount, together with lime peel, hedione (green jasmine bud), orris, balsamic notes, and fresh musk.
Escentric 02 contains 13.5% Ambroxan* in a formula designed to amplify its mineral note. It also contains hedione (green jasmine bud), a ‘gin and tonic’ accord, “and a hint of the Austrian lemonade called almdudler”. Geza Schoen describes the final effect as ‘super-longlasting freshness into the drydown, together with a subtle sensuality.’
*13.5% is the maximum percentage of Ambroxan that can be dissolved in a fragrance compound. Any more, and the Ambroxan begins to crystallize out of the solution.
Escentric 03 focuses on Vetiveryl Acetate in a formula that pays tribute to the three roots used in perfumery: vetiver, ginger and orris, which is extracted from the roots of the Florentine iris. “I wanted Escentric 03 to bring out the scent impressions of these roots,” says Geza Schoen, “and show how they harmonise with each other.”
Ginger dominates the top note, which is vibrant, green and spicy with lime peel and green peppercorn. The heart is rich, velvety orris with Egyptian jasmine and tea notes. The drydown emphasises the dark green woodiness of vetiver together with sandalwood, cedar, mellow balsams and musk.
Iso E Super is a molecule that hovers close to the skin to create an indefinable aura round the wearer.
It is characterised by a hyper-modern cedarwood note with a velvety sensation. Perfumer Geza Schoen explains its allure: “Iso E Super is one of those skin-sexy scents that makes you want to nestle into it. It’s comforting, cocooning.”
Iso E Super has a marked intermittence. To the wearer, it seems to vanish and then re-appear. This is due to the way it bonds with receptors in the olfactory system, only slowly releasing to make way for a fresh charge of the molecule on the receptors.
Iso E Super does not exist in nature. It was created in a laboratory at IFF in 1973.
Ambroxan has a subtle sensual quality with a radiant, long-lasting drydown.
It is a crystal with a chemical structure identical to the ambrox derived from ambergris. For centuries ambergris was perhaps the most prized ingredient in perfumery. It is a somewhat mysterious substance expelled by the cachalot or sperm whale which only attains its fine scent after a long maturation floating in the ocean. Ambergris is rarely found these days, and the ‘amber’ in a modern fragrance will be a lab-created equivalent of some of the aroma-molecules that make up its scent. By far the finest of these is the nature-identical molecule, Ambroxan.
Ambergris was always valued for its refinement as well as its sensuality. This quality persists in Ambroxan. “It has a fresh almost mineral quality,” says perfumer, Geza Schoen, “that lingers into the drydown.”
Ambroxan was isolated from plant sources in 1950.
Vetiveryl Acetate could be described as a hybrid molecule, half-natural, half-synthetic. It is a fraction of vetiver oil, distilled from the roots of an Indian grass, which is then ‘crossed’ with acetic acid to remove the bitter and leathery aspects of the root.
The result is an elegant and refined molecule with the woody, slightly grassy character of vetiver, but far smoother and softer. “Acetylation also brings out the grapefruit touch in vetiver,” says Geza Schoen, “giving a more pronounced bitter-fresh top note.”
It is the era of the grand studios when Greta Garbo and Marlene Dietrich magnetized men with a Hollywood look in the eye, smoking a cigarette in a smoky black and white ambiance. Jasmin et Cigarette is the smell of a woman’s skin when she exposes her freshness to the dark seduction of night. A hazy atmosphere. The reminder of a fantasy, of an indelible trail she leaves on a dress at the break of day or in the intimate memory of the man who made love to her. It is elegance seen by Gainsbourg, the woman from the 80’s who smokes Gitane cigarettes and wears jeans and who, with astounding naturalness, claims her sensuality as a right.
Transparency in sophistication, just a trace of jasmine mingled with the so far neglected smell of a cigarette. Jasmin et Cigarette is the twilight zone, the banned, the addiction. She is an icon, the longed-for woman. 100 ml.
We’ve given you decadent, we’ve given you outrageous, and now we give you nice. We pay allegiance to the concept of a modest cologne. Not an ordinary cologne, not a basic cologne. A proper cologne that achieves the perfection of simplicity.
The Cologne of Etat Libre d’Orange is a tender introduction to our sensual collection, a gentle initiation into our subversive world. This is an adaptable cologne that showers your body with a fresh joy. It’s whatever you want it to be, and you make it your own. It’s an easy pleasure, a scent for everyone, to splash on all over and wear everywhere. We offer you a new and different way to experience Etat Libre d’Orange. 100 ml.
Sheer sensuous fantasy. The powdered top note evokes a woman who dresses for seduction – a soft trail of lipstick, the rustling of lace. The intimate ritual of a femme fatale who sees right through the fragile armour of men. Her sophistication is intriguing, as is the commerce she makes of her body. Under the bitter-sweet touch of almond, like a secret that unfolds, comes a hint of supple leather, fluid and flexible, that introduces what is to come : a boudoir, fingers that tighten on a leatherette sofa and the palpable presence of raw desire. Doesn’t every woman have the fantasy of being a temptress in a hotel bar, of yielding to desire in the intimacy of a lift or of giving way to sensuality in silk sheet luxury? 100ml.
I have never been one for scents in bottles. The great Sufi poet Rumi wrote:
“If anyone wants to know what “spirit” is, or what “God’s fragrance” means, lean your head toward him or her. Keep your face there close. Like this.”
This is possibly my favorite poem of all time. It restores me like the smoke/rain/gingerbread/greenhouse my scent sense is fed by. It is a poem about simplicity, about human-scaled miracles. About trust. About home. In my fantasy there is a lost chapter of Alice in Wonderland — after the drink saying Drink Me, after the cake pleading Eat Me — where the adventuring, alien Alice, way down the rabbit hole, far from the familiar and maybe somewhat homesick — comes upon a modest glass with a ginger stem reaching down into a pale golden scent that humbly suggests: Like This…
Eau de parfum, 100 ml.
Nothing is Everything. Do not believe what you first see… under the demureness of the name, the spicy savour of blackcurrant bays and the musky notes of blond suede. Rien is a second skin perfume, a perfume that clings to the body and perseveres in the mind.
Like venial sin on the verge of becoming mortal, irresistible and resolutely pervasive. As light as mohair and as precious as cashmere, the fragrance envelops skin with a powdered caress. It has the meticulous elegance and hypnotic beauty of a modern Dorian Gray, in a feminine/masculine version. An entrancing fragrance that leaves an unforgettable imprint. Utter charm, utterly charismatic. The vanilla/opium accord of the drydown reinforces the addiction. Rien is an essential. A perfumer’s confession. 100 ml.
The water slips over him as if sliding down a marble rock, sinking into the grooves of his muscles, vanishing into his pores. This is fresh, pure water, with top notes of aldehydes and lemon, a water that washes away the sins of the night and leaves the skin luminous. Tom of Finland feels clean, like a shaving from a cake of soap. It is an ode to the beauty of the male body and to the radiance of the natural self.
For this man, clothing becomes a jewel-case that serves to reveal the true erotic power of the flesh. Tom of Finland is a breath of fresh air, offering unrestricted access to the immense outdoors, the depths of the forest, with notes of birch leaves, cypress, galbanum and pine at its heart. Straight, gay… These words are irrelevant here. Tom of Finland is beyond sexuality — he is sex, in all its fullness and magnitude, open and erect. Fantasy clings to him like his leather jacket, with suede, musk, and ambergray in the base notes. His belt is fastened with an accord of pepper and spicy-fresh saffron, tangled with a blond suede sensuality on a vanilla bed of tonka bean and iris. This is a man who wants to play, to love, to die and be reborn, again and again. Tom of Finland is a tribute to tomorrow’s glorious possibilities. 50 ml.
Egyptian Musk is a soft and fresh musky blend. 10 ml.
A classic, warm and pure sandalwood fragrance. Very soothing.
Musk Amber is a sweet and earthy blend of warm amber and soft musk. 10 ml.
Vanilla musk is sweet, sensual, and a bit playful. 10 ml.
White Musk is soft, warm, and sensual. 10 ml.
An exquisite clear fresh fragrance with light floral base note. 10 ml.
Intensely personal, capturing a lost mid-century elegance, RODIN bis perfume exudes a time of rare luxury- a classic green-violet-orris scent both complex and graceful.
In many ways an ode to Linda’s mother, the spicy top notes begin with bergamot, anise flower and lemon. The plush round heart is touched by rose de mai, jasmine and violet, and the powdery base includes long lingering musk, ambergris, tonka, and lavender.
1.7 fl. oz.
Simple and sensual, RODIN perfume captures the heart of olio lusso’s jasmine and neroli lovely scent. RODIN perfume has a distinctive signature at once intimate and long lasting.
In its chic bottle, it is the embodiment of quiet sophistication. Devotees of all RODIN’S luxurious products, this perfume, layered or worn alone, is sure to become another necessary indulgence.
1 fl. oz.
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